Motorspot, Inc.  760-731-8303

  Discount Wire Wheel Headquarters             Home Page

Frequently Asked Questions

  • Q: What is the difference between stainless steel spokes and nipples and chrome steel spokes and nipples?

  • A: Stainless steel spokes and nipples do not rust while chrome steel does. Stainless is also stronger than chrome steel and is better suited for heavier cars or where the horsepower and handling of the automobile has been improved. Stainless steel is not as shiny as chrome steel and has a satin-type patina to it. It is not all that noticeable without careful inspection. Please click here to view a comparison between stainless steel and chrome steel spokes and nipples. Stainless steel is expensive compared to our chrome steel spokes. For owners who are not able to keep the spokes and nipples as dry as possible or who live in a high humidity locale, we strongly recommend upgrading to stainless. Finally, stainless steel is a premium metal and we believe the prestige factor of having this metal used in your wheels is an important point to consider, especially if your automobile is going to be a permanent part of your collection. Please be aware that in all applications, the wheel hub and outer rim are still chrome steel and must be maintained to avoid rust or corrosion.

  • Q: Do wire wheels require a lot of maintenance?

  • A: Wire wheels will require more maintenance than a conventional steel or mag wheel. They are not as easy to clean as the aforementioned style. It is not as easy to get between the spokes to remove any dirt or debris. If your car is in daily service as opposed to a weekend driver or trailer-queen, you can expect to have to clean your wheels frequently if you want to keep them as attractive as possible. Some enthusiasts have no problem with this task and consider it part of the overall detailing demands of owning a collector car, while other owners are less tolerant with the task and may even consider it a burden. You should not consider purchasing wire wheels if you are not prepared to perform regular maintenance. Over time, if you keep your wheels relatively clean, it will hardly seem like it is taking that long at all to keep them like new. In our view, no other form of wheels looks as great as wire wheels.

  • Q: Is it true that wire wheels are prone to rusting out?
  • A: Due to the architecture and design of wire wheels, they tend to trap water. Our wire wheels use a style of chrome plating that is of a very high standard but permitting water or moisture to accumulate or remain on the chrome surfaces can eventually lead to a surprisingly rapid appearance of rust or corrosion. This is true with nearly all chrome wheels, not just ours. Our warranty against rust is 90 days from your receipt of your new wheels. Although this short period of time may surprise you, our competitors offer no warranty against rust at all deeming it to be an issue of owner maintenance alone.
  • When considering the purchase of wire wheels, you should be mindful that if your wheels get wet, you should take steps as soon as reasonably possible to dry off your wheels. If you wash your car, start by driving it around the block a few times to get water out of and off the surfaces and then dry the wheels thoroughly. If you have an air hose or even a garden blower, you should use this to remove any remaining water. Some owners will apply a thin application of WD40 or other rust inhibitor on their wheels, especially if the vehicle is going into winter storage. It is generally the spokes and nipples that will rust out first. For this reason, upgrading to stainless steel spokes and nipples may be a smart move.
  • Q: How can I keep my wheels looking like show quality?
  • A:  This is a question we feel confident we can answer because our wheels are used by many owners of Concours cars and we have received many thank you cards, emails and phone calls from our show-winning customers. We recommend using soap and water to keep your wheels clean. A dish-washing liquid detergent is sufficient. Even though our chrome plating is rugid, harsh detergents and especially abrasive and bleach containing products can cause serious harm to your chrome surfaces. This may not occur suddenly but over time, harsh cleaning agents will eventually spoil your chrome. If you insist upon using a cleaner, we recommend the Wizard's brand cleaner we sell and also Simple Green. Between cleanings, spraying on a very thin coat of WD40 may help to minimize rust or corrosion, especially during winter storage. Some customers of ours report success using polishes available from Maguires, Mothers or X-treme.
  • Q: Do you have any advice on how to mount tires on wire wheels?
  • A:  It is best to find an installer who has some experience with wire wheels. They are not as easy to mount tires on as a common steel wheel and do require the utmost of care. Find an installer that use a "touchless" type mounting system where no metal comes in direct contact with the rim itself. Our wheels are build as "lug-centric" and must be balanced from the wheel bolt holes or on the car. An experienced tire installer should have one or the other option available. Most quality tire shops have "finger" attachments that enable balancing from the wheel bolt holes. Balancing by the center hole instead of by the wheel bolt holes will result in a poor job of balancing.
  • Sadly, a lot of tire shops have little or no experience with wire wheels and may not realize that wire wheels have very small amounts of movement or wobbling compared to a modern CNC'd or billet aluminum wheel. Aggravating the situation is when the installer attempts to balance wire wheels from the center hole using a cone for centering. Few installers bother to have their cone checked for accuracy and if the center hole is not perfectly round, the wheel appears to have a side-to-side or up and down movement. This is normal. Do not let an installer balance your wheel from the center hole and look for an installer with the proper equipment and knowledge. Don't let an inexperienced installer tell you that your wheels are bad or defective when the installer doesn't have the equipment or knowledge to make such a statement. The proof of the pudding is how your wheels perform on your car.
  • For cosmetic reasons, the weights should be attached from the rear, not on the front side of the rim. It will spoil the appearance of your wheels although it may result in a superior job of balancing, having weights on both sides of the wheels. We favor the glue-on or stick-on type weights over the clip-on style which can harm your chrome if the weights scratch your chrome finish. Inspect your wheels carefully before and after to make sure there are no scratches or dents left on the rims by the installer. An experienced and responsible installer should not damage your finish. We have seen dents, scratches and other marks left by careless installers or by out-of-date equipment. Any questions regarding balancing should be referred to us for friendly advice.
  • Q: Can I use my current tires on the new wire wheels or must I buy new tires?
  • A: It is perfectly O.K. to run your current tires if they are the correct size for your new wheels. It is important to make sure that you return the tires to their original position on your car once mounted on the new wheels. In other words, if you take a tire off the left front wheel, you should return the same tire to this location. Also, we recommend checking your alignment once the new wheels are installed and realigning your car if necessary.
  • Please carefully follow our balancing instructions for maximum performance of your new wheels. Read all instructions carefully before installing.
  • Q: Do I need to run inner-tubes with wire wheels?
  • A: You must run tubes with our Thunderbird wire wheels and any wire wheels that are "lip-laced" or "bead-laced". These wheels feature spokes that are close to the outer rims as shown on this link: BEAD LACE. All of our other style wheels such as our center-lace or classic cross-lace Cadillac wheels are prepared as tubeless and do not require inner-tubes. Please click on this link to view a Center or Cross Lace wheel. Our warranty provides that if we sell you a wheel that is designated as a tubeless type and it subsequently leaks, we will send you free of charge an inner-tube. Because there can be many causes for a leaking wheel, including installer's negligence, rather than trying to prove what was the cause and origin of the leak, we will simply send you an inner-tube so that you can get on your way as soon as possible. Some customers choose to run inner-tubes in their tubeless type wheels as an extra precaution against leaking. We think this may be a good idea, especially if you do not drive your car very often.
  • It is imperative that if you run inner-tubes in your tires that you carefully and thoroughly check that any inspection tags in your tires are removed. Do not cut them out. Use a hair dryer to heat up the tags and remove them. These tags can puncture your inner tubes and cause flats or rapid loss of air. Do not trust your tire installer to check for these tags alone. Double-check that all tags have been removed. Also, look for any sharp edges in your tires such as "mold-marks" that could puncture your tubes. Do not place electrical tape or any tape inside your wheels. This tape can become brittle and end up puncturing your inner tubes.
  • Q: Where can I purchase new tires, especially whitewalls at discount prices?
  • A: Please visit our discount tire website at: www.widewhitetires.com for the best selection and prices on the web. We also offer wheel and tire packages at attractive prices that are a convenient way to purchase wheels and tires.
  • Q: Do you recommend your wire wheels for modern cars, 1990 and newer?
  • A: Our collector car wheels are best suited for cars 1980 or older. The collector series wheels are made just like they were built in the 50's, by hand. Although our replica wire wheels are built to precision standards for this type of rim, more modern cars require more precise tolerances and using this style of rim may lead to unwanted vibration. For modern cars, we do have other styles of wire wheels that will offer better performance. We can help you select the best wheel for your application.
  • Q: When it comes to tires, which is better, bias-ply or steel belted radials?
  • A: The advantages of bias-ply tires are: 1) Most authentic, period-correct look for a vintage car. 2) Less expense generally. 3) In most cases, wider whitewalls and more choices of brands and whitewall sizes and appearances. 4) The most notable appearance features are the straight up and down or vertical side walls, the attractive "pie-crust" edges of the tires that resemble scallops and the period-correct looking tread patterns. A good example of a bias-ply tire with a wide four inch tire can be seen on this link: BIAS PLY TIRE. The disadvantages of bias-ply tires are that they do not ride as nice as steel belted radials will or perform as well on cornering or in wet conditions. They tend to follow cracks or seams in the pavement and they will "flat-spot" if they sit too long without use, although the tires will smooth out after driving for a given distance. If you are running bias-ply tires presently that are over 9 years of age, they are probably in need of replacement and new bias-plys will probably perform much better than outdated rubber will. Bias-ply tires probably will not have as long of an estimated tread life and may not have a high enough speed rating if you have a need for speed.
  • The advantages of steel-belted radial tires are: 1)  Superior ride and performance. 2)  Attractive design. 3) Period-correct appearance and whitewall stripes for more modern cars. 4) Longer tread-life and 5) Speed rated for higher speed driving. The disadvantages are: 1) Higher cost.  2) Can cause cracking or harm to antiquated wheels. 3) May detract from a vintage presentation on an older car. 4) In tight quarters, a steel belted radial may be wider than needed and could rub or make contact with a fender skirt or body panel. Please click here to see a fine example of steel belted radials on a collector car: STEEL BELTED RADIALS.
  • To discuss the correct choice for your car, please feel free to call or email us with your questions.
  • Q: My wire wheels need repair. Can they be fixed?
  • A: Yes. Simply let us know the nature of the problem and we can give you advice on how to remedy the situation. We work with repair facilities that can perform repairs such as fixing leaks, straightening out dents and replacing spokes.
  • Q: Do you think it is a good idea to purchase used wire wheels?
  • A: Unless you intend to have them restored immediately or you collect old wheels, we would recommend against it. Most used wheels we have seen have unknown histories. They could be 10, 20, 30 years old or even older. Sadly, the spokes could have small cracks or defects in them that are hardly visible. Rust can be hiding like a cancer eating away at the spokes which could lead to a serious failure. The wheels could leak from dried out or damaged inner liners resulting in costly towing bills. We have seen cases of wheels that have suffered catastrophic spoke failures which could lead to a loss of control of the automobile. You just can't be sure enough to risk your safety on used rims.
  • Q: I own a set of wire wheels already and I am thinking of restoring them. Does it make more sense to just purchase new wire wheels or restore the ones that I have?
  • A: We are one of the few wire wheels vendors that can offer restoration and also sales of new wire wheels. For a general explanation of our restoration services, please click on this link: RESTORATION SERVICES. In most cases restoration costs will exceed the cost of purchasing new wire wheels. However, a show-quality restoration can be justified for the following reasons: A) The wheels are unique to the car and originality is required. B) Sentimental reasons (for example, the wheels belonged to the owner's late father). C) The wheels have unusual hubs, spoke counts, offsets that cannot be duplicated. D) The restored wheels will add great value to the car and can be restored to a higher standard than purchasing new wheels. E) The hubcaps or center emblems are not available anywhere else.
  • Restorations can take from four to eight weeks depending upon the nature of the services required and materials specified by the owner such as stainless steel spokes or copper plating.
  • Purchasing new wheels has its advantages because new wheels may be much stronger and safer than even old, restored wheels. Thicker metals, more spokes, stronger outer rims and better suited off-sets are available in new rims. Most styles are available off-the-shelf or can be prepared within a few days or weeks.
  • Q: I own a late model Cadillac. Can I put your Collector Style Cadillac wire wheels on my car?
  • A: We discourage using our Collector wheels on post 80's or 90's automobiles. Our wheels are made by hand and although they are precision-built, the tolerances and specifications we use may not be adequate for more modern cars where modern construction techniques result in much higher levels of precision. Also, some modern cars have tire pressure monitoring systems which our wheels do not have. We can fit more modern cars with Dayton brand wire wheels as shown on this link: Dayton Wire Wheels.

  • Q: During the balancing of my new wheels, I saw the front lip of the wheel weaving up and down very slightly, as though the edge is not straight. Is my wheel out of round or defective?
  • A: Before any wheels leave the factory, they are triple gauge-tested for accuracy and roll out. No wheel is ever shipped that isn't within specification. However, the front edge of our wheels are not perfectly flat and smooth like an aluminum rim would be. These outer rims are formed in the same manner as the originals in the '50's and 60's, and in most instances have slight rises in them that can appear to look like a wobble upon rotation. If your wheel was not damaged during shipment or during mounting, the most probable cause of this condition is the edge of the wheel not being perfectly straight. This does not affect performance and in most cases is concealed by the mounted tire. Tire installers who are not familiar with wire wheels and this type of outer rim will often report the wheel to be "out-of-round" or to be wobbling, when in fact it is not. The outer rims are made by the same people who make Cragar wheels in California and are of the highest quality. If you aren't certain about this, please feel free to call us for technical support. Don't be surprised to see weights attached in the amount of 3-5 ounces or more. If higher amounts are called for, ask the installer to rotate your tire 180 degrees and re-balance.

Discount Wire Wheels
Discount Whitewall Tires

Motorspot, Inc.

Orange, California 92867
Telephone: 760-731-8303 (all calls returned)
email: sales@hobbycar.com


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July 12, 2010

 

 

 

 

 

Thunderbird Wire Wheels              Cadillac Wire Wheels           Chrysler Wire Wheels

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Packard Wire Wheels         Wire Wheel Restoration            Truespoke Wire Wheels

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Wire wheels for your Thunderbird, Cadillac, Ford or Chevrolet. Hot rod wire wheels, steel wheels and more. Artillery wheels

Motorspot, Inc. is pleased to offer wire wheels for vintage cars. Our rims are triple chrome plated over a nickel base. We can supply wheels for your Thunderbird, Cadillac, Chrysler, Edsel, Ford and Packard. Roadster brand wire wheels are made in California of the highest quality materials. The rims are similar in appearance to the original Kelsey Hayes wheels. You will be very pleased with these hand built wire wheels that should give you years of motoring pleasure. Whether your T-Bird, Cadillac, Packard or Chrysler is used for show or street, you couldn't make a better choice for wire wheels. Please call or email us for friendly advice. We hope to ship you a set of wire wheels.